Eiffel tower

Eiffel tower

Eiffel Tower

Constructed between 1887-1889 by Gustave Eiffel, the Eiffel Tower is a world landmark known for its graceful structure and wonderful views of Paris. The monument, which is over one thousand feet tall, was built as a temporary structure for the 1889 World's Fair.  It proved such a popular attraction that it was given an extended lease on life, but only after a bitter national debate on whether the monument was attractive or an eyesore.

Access to the viewing floors is possible by elevators, for a fee that escalates as you aspire to see Paris from greater heights.  The first elevator takes you to a viewing stand, while a second elevator will take you to the top viewing floor).

The Eiffel Tower is a popular attraction. On an average day, slightly over 18,000 visitors are admitted. Individual tickets cannot be reserved, but large groups must reserve their tickets in advance. Guided tours are available from several local companies.

      

The line to ascend the Tower can be long in summer, but the view is worth the wait.  If you have good weather and have a little extra time, return to the Eiffel Tower at sunset for a spectacular scene.  In addition, when illuminated, the Eiffel Tower is equally stunning, so try to catch a view of it after dark.

If you are looking for the best view and photograph of the Eiffel Tower, approach it from the Palais de Chaillot across the Seine, as the view  is spectacular. Take the Metro either to the Trocadero or Passy to access the Palais.

                

The Eiffel Tower is open year around.  From June 18 though August 28 its hours are 9:00 a.m. to midnight.  During the rest of the year, it is open from 9:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.  For more details and information about fees, please visit the  official website for the Eiffel Tower. 

The Eiffel Tower has two restaurants. On the first floor is the more casual 58 Tour Eiffel that converts to a brasserie in the evening from a family and group restaurant during the day. The famous Le Jules Verne restaurant on the second floor has earned a Michelin Star (Chef Alain Ducasse) and has the prices to prove it. The Jules Verne is accessible by its private elevator. Reservations are required for the Jules Verne and suggested for 58 Tour Eiffel.

Notre Dame

Notre Dame

Notre Dame

The grand Cathedral of  Our Lady of Paris was commissioned by Bishop Maurice de Sully in 1160 and  was a work in progress over the next few centuries.  During the Revolution, which started in 1789, Notre Dame was a target of the Parisian revolutionaries because of the favored relationship that existed  between the Catholic Church and the French monarchy.  The Cathedral's spire, the statues from the Gallery of the Kings and the statues at all major portals were destroyed by angry crowds. In a final blow to the Catholic hierarchy, the cathedral became the property of the civil authorities.

            

Notre Dame was given back to the Catholic Church during Napoleon's reign in 1802 and  over the remainder of the century  the church was restored to its former glory, although significant changes were made to  its exterior design   It is still in use as the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Paris.

Notre Dame is an impressive cathedral. Both the exterior and the interior of Notre Dame are endowed with numerous spectacular features, so do not make this a quick walk-by or you will miss many of the cathedral's noted features. . Note that the unique look of the cathedral's facade was heavily influenced by a restoration in the 1860's.

Most travelers approach Notre Dame from the West Facade, shown above.  The two towers date from the mid-13th century and rise over 200 feet (63 meters) from the ground.  The facade is famous for its simplicity in integrating a number of outstanding features, principally the large Rose Window (below left)  that forms a halo surrounding a statue of the Blessed Virgin, holding the infant Jesus, while she is in conversation with two angels. 

         

Below the Rose Window is the Gallery of Kings, a series of 28 figures from the Bible, although historically they were thought to represent  the Kings of France.  Below the Gallery are three entrance  portals, with the center portal, known as  Last Judgment Portal (photo above-right). taller than the other two.  Each is adorned with a number of impressive sculptures, although the Portal to the Virgin on the left (north) is the most popular with tourists.

Notre Dame was one of first great cathedrals to employ flying buttresses. These wing-like elevated arches transferred the load from the vault of the cathedral to a buttress (or pier) outside the building proper.

This innovation allowed the construction of taller, lighter structures and provided for openings in exterior walls for large windows, which, without the presence of the flying buttresses, would  make the walls too weak to support the load.  The beautiful stained glass windows at Notre Dame would not have been possible without this architectural innovation.

Notre Dame's  flying buttresses can be seen along the east end of the cathedral, as shown in the see photo at the top-left of this page.

The Cathedral's stained glass is a treasure, especially the West Rose Window (above the entrance) and the larger  Rose Windows in the North and South Portals. Some of the glass in these frames and most of the designs are original and date from the early 13th century.

       

If you have the stamina and interest, you can climb to the top of Notre Dame for a grand view of Paris that you will share with fearsome gargoyles. (Although we have never seen Victor Hugo's Hunchback there, were are sure he must be skulking around somewhere close by.)  The walk is strenuous, requiring ascent of almost 400 steps and there is not an elevator.  The Tower  is available for visiting from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. in winter and one hour later in spring and summer.  The last access is 45 minutes before closing and the Tower itself is closed on January 1, May 1 and December 25.

          

The Cathedral of Notre Dame is open all year from 8 a.m. to 6:45 p.m. and 30 minutes later on Saturday and Sunday.  Access is free, but you are requested to be mindful of the religious services that may be held during your visit.

There were at least three precursor churches to Notre Dame and other buildings in the the immediate area that were destroyed or built over as work on the master cathedral continued.  Down the street named Parvis Notre Dame (west - from the Cathedral ) at  number 7 is the Archaeological Crypt of Notre Dame.  Excavations  during the last century revealed incredible details about the Île de la Cité, including a bathhouse, roman wall and other interesting antiquities.  The Crypt is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. except for Sundays, Mondays and some holidays.

For more information on visiting and to view some incredible 360° views, see the official website of the Notre Dame Cathedral.

About The Hunchback of Notre Dame

The story of the Hunchback of Notre Dame is one that has attracted a world-wide following.  It is the tale of the unjust persecution of a deaf, deformed man who was taken advantage of by his caretaker.  The masterful story of the Hunchback is one reason that so many visit the Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris.

Victor Hugo wrote the novel the "Hunchback of Notre Dame" in the early 19th century.  The story centers on three characters:  the Hunchback (Quasimodo), an archdeacon of Notre Dame named Frollo  (who had "adopted  Quasimodo) and a beautiful Gypsy named Esmeralda.  Quasimodo, a recluse, is the bell ringer at Notre Dame and lives in the bell tower. He is uncomfortable with the outside world whose inhabitants ridicule him because of his deformity and deafness.

Frollo, the cleric, is "attracted" to Esmeralda (as is the Hunchback) and commands the Hunchback to kidnap Esmeralda. The kidnapping leads to several other adventures and one  event in particular that threatens the life of Esmeralda, whom the Hunchback has come to love.   Esmeralda is accused of  murdering Phoebus, the man she loved, although  the murder was actually committed by the Frollo who was jealous of Phoebus.  Frollo, however, lies and implicates Esmeralda who is arrested for the crime and sentenced to death by hanging.

Quasimodo rescues Esmeralda from prison and takes her to the Notre Dame Cathedral, knowing that she can seek asylum there from the civil charges.  However, Frollo lures the Hunchback from the Cathedral, thus allowing the authorities to capture and execute Esmeralda. The Hunchback becomes enraged at this injustice and throws the evil Frollo from the Notre Dame Bell Tower. Quasimodo then searches for  Esmeralda's body, finds it in the cemetery and grieves for her, starving himself to death in the process.

Central Paris

Central Paris

Central Paris

Central Paris - a Mix of Attractions and Shopping

Place de la Concorde

The Place de la Concorde separates the Tuileries Gardens on the east from the Avenue des Champs Elysées to the west. The Place de la Concorde is not an end destination but a waypoint on a visit to the Tuileries, Louvre or Central Paris

The Obelisk at the center of this square came from the Egyptian temple at Luxor and was installed in the center of the Place de la Concorde in the 19th century. The obelisk and nearby fountains have come to be landmarks of Paris. It was in the Place de la Concorde that Marie Antoinette, Louis XVI, Robespierre and many others associated with the French royalty were guillotined in the center of the square at the end of the 18th century.

      

The Place del la Concorde has been renamed many times (it was once called Place Louis XV and, then, Place de la Revolution) and has always been a popular gathering place and often used to host civic celebrations, such as soccer championship celebrations. On weekend and in summer you will find street entertainers offering zany skits.

At the head of the square, (on the corner of Rue Boissy) is the stately Hôtel de Crillon, one of the most luxurious places to stay in Paris.

Rue Saint-Honoré

(1st arrondissement) (R)

Follow Rue Royale north towards the Place de La Madeline and the first intersection you come to will be Rue Saint-Honoré, which runs west to the Place Vendome (described below). Along Rue Saint-Honoré you will find Saint Laurent, Prada, Cartier, Prada, Lanvin and many stores offering luxury goods.  Continue along Rue Royale north and you will pass Gucci, Dior and Ralph Lauren and arrive at the Place de la Madeleine.

Place de la Madeleine

The Place de la Madeleine is  an area known for its gourmet quality food shops. While on Rue Royale, keep and eye out for Ladurée Royale, a tea salon famous for its pastries at number 16.

While in this area,  you may want to take a look at the church known as La Madeleine (19th century).  It was originally designed as  a memorial to the army of Napoleon, but was eventually commissioned to be a Catholic church, with a temple-like design.  The interior is quite attractive and worth a quick glance.

Place Vendome and the Colonne de la Grande Armée

One of the best squares in Paris from an architectural point of view, is the Place Vendome with its lovely arcaded buildings.   The square houses many upscale stores and is the location of the "original" Ritz Hotel.

The Column (the Colonne) of the Grand Army was commissioned by Napoleon (whose statue once adorned the top of the column) and is faced with plates made from enemy cannons taken at the battle of Austerlitz in1805.  The battle was one of Napoleon's most celebrated victories and led to the end of Holy Roman Empire.  If the column looks familiar to you, it was based on the design for Trajan's Column in Rome, that is also used to commemorate an important battle.

The shopping at the Place Vendome features Cartier, Chaumet (fine jewelry), Charvet (one the world's best known custom shirt tailors) and other providers of luxury goods.

Opéra Garnier

The Paris Opera is richly decorated music hall built for Napoleon III by the well-regarded architect Charles Garnier. The Opera has recently been refurbished and the major roof statuary re-gilded to magnificent effect. The Opera, which has a stunning interior, is not an end destination but a walk-by on your way to local shopping along the Grand Boulevards. Visit the official website  for more information.

Shopping at the Grand Magasins

Paris has a number of wide avenues called the "Grand Boulevards", which were designed by Georges Haussmann, the planner responsible for the look of much of central Paris, during the last half of the nineteenth century.  The Grand Magasins (the great department stores) were attracted to the Grand Boulevards.  If you have a chance, visit the two Grand Magasins on Boulevard Haussmann: Galeries Lafayette (#40) and Printemps (#64).   Note that the main shopping area along Boulevard Haussmann is to the east near Rue de Rome .

Printemps is an impressive department store that has a delightful restaurant (Printemps de la Mode - Level 6) sitting beneath the store's stunning stained glass, "Art Nouveau Cupola" that dates from the "Twenties".  You can find a Ladurée Patisserie here, as well as the Café Be managed by the famous chef Alain Ducasse.

       

Galeries Lafayette's is another of the Grand Magasins and is an impressive and large store.  On its 6th floor you will find the largest shop for Paris souvenirs in the city. On the same floor is the Lafayette Caffé, which offers good food and an outdoor terrace with views of the city. See their official website for more information.

For those of you interested in the Grand Magasins, La Samaritaine, a Paris landmark on the Left Bank and one of the City's most celebrated department stores, closed in June, 2005 due to "environmental" issues. Renovations are expected to take six years, after which the art deco masterpiece is scheduled to re-open.  Hopefully, it will reopen, but for now those interested should check at the store's official, but uninformative website.

Versailles

Versailles

Versailles

If you can only fit in one daytrip during your visit to Paris, make it to Palace of Versailles,  the most opulent and historic royal château in France.  Originally a hunting lodge constructed for Louis XIII, the property was converted into an enclave for the court of Louis XIV in the late 17th century.  While the Town of Versailles, which includes the Palace, is now considered a nearby suburb of Paris, at the time it was constructed, Versailles was a country estate. Versailles's scale defies imagination. The buildings are intricate, ornate and filled with period furniture and interesting exhibits.

Versailles

The Château of Versailles emphasizes royal grandeur, so much so that it became a symbol of the difference between the "haves" and "have nots" that eventually led to the French Revolution in the 18th century.  Versailles was created by Louis XIV as a country retreat - an alternative to living and ruling the country from Paris.

There was so much intrigue among the nobility and politicians in the court of Louis XIV that he was afraid to have them out of his sight for fear that they would revolt against his reign. As a consequence, he built Versailles large enough to house his entire court and ordered them to accompany him when he was in residence - staying in Paris was not an option when the "Sun King" requested your presence at Versailles.

The main Palace  of Versailles is surrounded by a spacious, luxurious, park filled with fountains, sculptures, beautiful gardens and yet other palaces and lodging for the royals. This “must see” attraction is a comfortable day trip from Paris (approximately twenty-five minutes to the Versailles Rive-Gauche Station by RER).

Although there are  many attractions at Versailles (the official map shows over ninety attractions in their list of the most remarkable areas of the estate) the best way to approach this palatial complex is to break it into four categories, which are: 1) The Palace, 2) the Gardens, 3) Marie Antoinette's Estate, and 4) the Grand Trianon. 

Take a self-guided tour of the grounds but sign up for a guided tour of the lavishly decorated interior of the Palace. Be sure to research  the many things you can see at Versailles before you go, as it contains many treasures that you might miss if not prepared. In addition, get there early, as exploring all of Versailles will require the better part of a day. See what you can and leave when you are pooped.

The Palace

Most visitors focus on the Palace, which was the residence of the king and his court. The palace is enormous, beautiful and presents an almost overwhelming array of attractions. Be sure to see the State Apartments (both King and Queen's), Opera House and the Chapel Royal. Don't miss the beautiful Hall of Mirrors, which re-opened to the public in June of 2007 after undergoing a thorough, three year restoration.

Highlights of the interior of the Château include: The Hall of Mirrors, Royal Opera, Marble Staircase, Mars Drawing Room, Venus and Diana Drawing Rooms, and The Royal Chapel

     

We recommend that you take a formal tour of the Palace, as there are too many interesting details to take in without extensive preparation.  In addition, you may find out "unusual" stories about the monarchs.  For example, during a recent tour our guide told us the Sun King had "people" to wipe his backside, as he believed that  doing so was unbecoming  for a king of his stature.  Who knew?

The Grand Trianon

Louis XIV built and  occupied the Grand Trianon, where some of his family also lived  The Grand Trianon is a small, classical palace and private residence that Louis XIV hoped would allow him and his family to escape the rigors life at the court.  It is a one story affair known as the Marble Trianon, built in the late 17th century. 

The Grand Trianon, a one-story building built late in the 17th century is, also, known as the Mable Trianon.  Its marvelous columned porticos help make this a stately building in a beautiful setting. The Grand Trianon was beloved by the wife of King Louis XV, Marie Leszczynska, who lived here in summer.  Marie-Antoinette gave several performances in the Grand Trianon, but preferred the Petit Trianon, which her husband Louis XVI had gifted her as a present.

Marie Antoinette's Estate

Marie Antoinette's Estate is a classic example of the contrasts at Versailles and you should reserve time in your schedule for a tour.  The section of Versailles associated with Marie Antoinette reopened in the summer of 2006 (after substantial restoration) as "Marie Antoinette's Estate".   It includes the Petit Trianon, Chapel, the Queen's Hamlet,  the replanted English Garden (damaged in a freak storm during 1999) and other delightful attractions.

In part Marie Antoinette's unusual choice of residences reflects the difference between the Habsburgs and the French (she was the daughter of Maria Theresa, who was one of the rulers of the Habsburg Empire during the 18th century.) The Petit Trianon, her small but ornate neoclassical residence also known as "Little Vienna" and its gardens are extremely beautiful.  The Petit Trianon was originally built in the mid-17th century for Madame de Pompadour  who was a mistress and friend of Louis XV, but Marie Antoinette spared no expense in altering the Petit Trianon and its gardens to reflect her tastes.

     

The English Garden commissioned by Marie Antoinette  and the Queen's Hamlet are very popular with visitors.  Marie Antoinette apparently often wished to get away from Versailles, but it was simply not possible.  As a consequence, she had purpose-built a hamlet where she could surround herself with a royal's view of the life of peasants.  The Hamlet included a working farm and employed a famer and his fieldworkers.

The Gardens

Behind the Palace is the start of the formal gardens, which are laid out with a formal geometric shape.  In addition, several amazing fountains and ornamental lakes hold statues of unbelievable beauty.  The gardens lead in the direction of the Grand Canal, which extends for over a mile in length, receding into the distance in what appears to perfect symmetry.

The gardens are both elegant and stunning.  You will be able to see  a portion of the gardens on your way to the Estate of Marie Antoinette and the Grand Trianon, but all of the garden area is spectacular and worthy of your time.

       

Have your camera ready, as Versailles is one of the best picture opportunities in France. The grounds are lush and filled with monuments, statues, canals, and other signs of an ostentatious design. The Grand and Petit Trianon and their gardens are worth a slow walkthrough as they will provide you with additional insights into the extravagant spending required to build Versailles and the contrast between the royalty and the commoner in France at that time.

Versailles and Giverny Day Trip   From Viator Tours

Versailles is in the midst of a renovation program that will last until 2020. Various areas of the Chateau will be closed as they are restored. Regardless, there is so much to explore at Versailles that the closures simply make it easier to choose what to see. Other buildings may close for emergency repairs.